Photos by Bennu Gerede
At Kilometre Paris, each piece seeks to tell a story of travel through Couture & Embroidery. With our 'Caravans', we invite you to join us on our worldly travels and experience unique events in which fashion meets storytelling.
Through our stops around the world, we shine lights on each of our 'muses': those exceptional individuals who inspire us with their passions and their individuality. These encounters offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in a universe where each garment, crafted with care & detail, represents a journey, an enriching experience which we hope to share.
Under the direction of Alexandra Senes and with the eyes of talented photographers such as Sarah Forgie, Bennu Gerede & Julie Ansiau, we've documented these exchanges, offering an intimate & authentic way of celebrating at our creations. This edition of Caravan takes place in Ibiza, with 8 inspiring muses, each enriching our adventure. Join us on an unforgettable journey of fashion and creativity.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Camille Barotin. Her grandfather fell in love with the island and had a house built here. He drew it himself. She spent a large part of her childhood inside it, and the word she uses is formatted: the creativity, the encounters, the freedom, and above all the light, which she still calls insane. That is one half of where the eye comes from. The other half is that she trained as a graphic designer, so the colour was taught.
She is from the south of France, Montpellier. She lived in London, then Paris. Since 2009 she has worked for Hermès, and there is a symmetry in that, because her mother and her grandmother opened the Montpellier boutique. What holds her there is that it isn't only a luxury brand to her, it's a universe. Time, exceptional materials, things that have kept their value. And it remains one of the few houses still genuinely interested in artists.
She calls herself a Swiss army knife. Ceramics, photography, video, playlists. She DJs, and even there she is telling a story, not with words. Never records one after another. A selection, built whole.
What she likes most is choosing. Finding the beautiful, the singular, the authentic, anything with a soul in it, and handing it on to other people through whatever medium is nearest. A place, a restaurant, a shop, an object, an artist.
Indigo is the current obsession. Aboubakar Fofana, whose talent she calls insane. And an Indian artist from Bangalore, Kaimurai, whose work she came to recently: small textiles, natural indigo, the landscapes of southern India, a gesture repeated until it works like meditation. That one she says she feels physically.
In a world moving this fast, with AI, with machines able to reproduce absolutely anything, what the hand transmits holds a value that is profoundly human, and it is exactly what is missing now. A machine will never reproduce a trace. A flaw. The thing that makes an object the only one of its kind. She has her own hands in clay, so she isn't speaking from outside it.
Ask her what she will be doing in ten years and she says she doesn't know, and that she needs to work it out soon. Something with a link to art. Something close to curating without being curating. Emotional is the adjective she reaches for, and then she says she isn't sure the term exists.
Twenty-four hours starts with a walk, early, from a small port along the paths on foot, up to a sundial standing beside a stone doorway. Timeless, she says. On the other side of it, Es Vedrà. Then fish for lunch at the place she thinks does the best on the island. A swim at Ses Salines, then another somewhere with small alcoves, lagoons, rocks worn into shapes. Then west, because she likes the west, and Atlantis for the end of the light.
Given an unlimited credit card and three months, she wouldn't buy objects. She isn't a collector of possessions, she says, she is a collector of emotions. So she would buy time, which she considers the greatest luxury there is. Then she would spend the three months going to see the last artisans while they are still there. Japan for ceramics, and to learn washi. Africa for the dyers. India for textile. Morocco. So many countries.
Not to make a documentary out of it. To soak in it, learn properly, watch how it actually happens. And record it, the sounds and the smells, so that it can be rebuilt afterwards into something people can walk into.
A living medium, is how she puts it, before admitting she hasn't found the name for that either.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Lucho Gonzalez de Brieva, unelected mayor of three streets.
Sometimes he does not drive for six or seven days. You could go half an hour, forty minutes, out to a beautiful cala, and he will tell you honestly that he would rather not. Everything he needs is a ten or fifteen minute walk from his door: the cafés, the restaurants, the castle to explore, the Parador. There is a vedic place he loves where he has his own table. An Italian, high end, small plates. A Michelin star down in the marina, opened by someone he rates enormously. So his recommendation for twenty-four hours on this island is to stay exactly where you are, which is either the least useful answer anyone gave, or the only honest one.
The full name is Luis Eduardo González de Brieva y Palacio. He shortens it. Brieva is a small town in Ávila, in Castilla, where the family came from before they went to Colombia several centuries ago. His brothers have been. He has not.
His father would not eat chicken and would not eat fish, on the grounds that fish smells bad. The household went through a cow a week. Empanadas, terneras, sausages, tripe, every part of the animal, an enormous barbecue. He calls it a massacre and he calls the Colombian diet a killer, and he notes that everybody got sick.
He was writing stories at twelve and being published in the local newspapers. He was introverted, and he has always had an interior life that occupied him.
He left at eighteen, for an English girl. She was working at the embassy, considerably older than him, and about to marry a captain in the paratroopers. Before that he had a small house by the sea in a fishing village, and he filled it with exactly the people his parents did not want him near: the intelligent ones, the lesbians, the poets, the writers, the musicians. She came to one of those parties. She stayed. And afterwards she told him he was brilliant and that he had to come to England.
He went, and he stayed thirty years. What he found there was the European culture he had been looking for, which is why Brexit ended it for him. London itself he describes as the opposite of here: hard, grey, pushing you outward, turning you into a tiger because you have no choice, and laying a melancholy tone across a whole life. He built himself a house inside a set of gates, hidden, with a courtyard and a pool, and he says the house should not have been there at all. He never had the need or even the inclination to ask anyone's permission. He simply did it. If it had been on the main street he would never have got away with it.
That house was a temple, and occasionally it was something else. Around two hundred and eighty people at each party, on average, held to honour the shadow. His conditions: no business, no agendas of any kind, just the dance. All his drummers and a good DJ. A great deal of attention paid to the lights, and at a certain point nobody could film anything, so everybody was simply in it. People came back the following day because they did not want to stop, and they would make pizzas. He did four of them across two years and that was enough.
He came to Ibiza for the first time in 2006, to visit the mother of the woman he was with. On the last day, driving to the port from Santa Eulària, the traffic stopped. He lost consciousness. The impact came through the door and into his arm and broke his ribs, and the doctor told him afterwards that the muscle was what stopped it going through his back. The driver put eight people in hospital. Lucho was in for ten days.
Welcome to Ibiza.
He said he would never come back. Then he came back for ayahuasca. And then, on the first of September 2018, at ten in the evening, he was at a party at Sunset Ashram, tired of the blablabla, and he walked away from all of it, climbed onto a rock, took his clothes off and got into the sea, which was still warm. He floated there under the whole sky. And what he thought was: this is what I want, and I do not want it for two weeks a year, I want it every day if I want it.
Three weeks later his son told him he was moving out with friends. Lucho said that was wonderful, and that he was also moving. Where, said his son. A small island in Spain, said Lucho, called Eivissa. His son had never heard of it.
His mother made things. She was a designer with a lot of people working for her, and she was always making something for the children anyway, and he watched her. He thinks he has always had something in his hands. He is an architect, and a designer, and a philosopher, which he worked out when he realised everything he was doing led back to a philosophical exploration. He has always played: piano, guitar, flute. He never trained, does not read music, and played well enough to work for a long time alongside one of the great guitarists in rock.
If you can use your hands, he says, you have solved the existential question of your life. You can sit in an office all day, and hold every degree there is, and if you do not play the guitar or paint or lay a wall then you are missing a part of it.
He never studied philosophy at an institution and he never will. The Greeks explained it perfectly well: philo is love, sophia is wisdom, and anyone interested in wisdom is already in it. He has carried questions in his head his entire life and he says, without hedging, that yes, he has found answers, from extraordinary teachers, and he took as much as he could. He does not hand any of it on unprompted. There is a rule in India about not teaching unless you are asked. Which is a peculiar position to hold on an island where everyone talks about spirituality, and where, he thinks, they mostly play at it, because playing is easier.
Before the Greeks found the patterns, they called everything chaos. That is the actual word. Then they started noticing the repetitions in nature, the proportions, the golden mean, and they changed it to cosmos, which means order. He would like you to consider what kind of mind performs that switch. He thinks we are in another one now, and being badly served by it, because we are less intelligent about running our lives than we were, and because we are entertaining ourselves to death. For eighty years most of us have not had to think about famine, or hunger, or war. Not really.
Ask him how to build a temple and he will tell you, and it takes about ninety seconds. The square is the material world: cardinal points, the forces, everything of this universe. The dome is divinity, the cosmos, the circle. Every tradition does this, Chinese temples included. The difficult part is the connector between the two, and the connector is a second square, laid over the first and turned forty-five degrees, which produces an octagon, and the octagon is the perfect seat for a dome. Our ancestors knew. And the reason it works, he says, is that it is more or less a science: we now know the brain is looking for the relationship between the proportions.
Love, in his account, comes from the act of protecting, of taking care of the thing. Not romantically, not you are mine and you are my saviour, but simply that if you love someone you want to look after them, and that is what the word has meant for thousands of years. He puts it alongside three others he takes from Hindu tradition, satyam shivam sundaram, the true, the good and the beautiful, and his position is that any creative process undertaken with those in mind cannot go wrong. Which he applies to absolutely everything, including what you keep around you and what you spend your attention on.
He is pleased that scientists have started counting the neurons in the heart, tens of thousands of them, a second brain, the same way we now talk about the gut. Nothing new, he points out. They are only confirming it. And the virtues we already carry in there are a form of wisdom, so the work is simply to use them, rather than to compete, or to be seen. Do the thing. Then practise. It wakes up.
Also, on Alexander the Great: not so great. He was an asshole, and nobody is even certain where he is buried. Lucho once stood in Siwa with two real historians arguing about it in front of him. What interests him more is what happened afterwards, when one of Alexander's generals took Egypt and built Alexandria, and how much of what we became came out of that library.
In his first year here he was asked whether he wanted to organise something during a talks event on the island. He found an eighty-year-old Roma woman, a lesbian, a singer, who had survived a life he does not summarise lightly, having been rescued as a child by a woman from outside the community. She had taken eighty-three Roma people and put them into a school so they could learn to read and write. She adopted eighteen children personally. He calls her a fighter and a local hero and an artist and an intellectual, and he says she has a presence. She still performs, most nights, everywhere. He asked her to sing at the event and she said the audience would not understand what she was carrying. He also brought the guitarist she always plays with. The word people use around her is duende, and Lucho, who knows perfectly well what it means, uses it too.
Nobody pays him for any of this. He pays full rent like everybody else and does the rest in service, and he says the question he is asked most often is whether he is getting paid. Exactly one person has ever told him he was doing something worth doing: a very quiet English musician who lives here part of the year, a guitarist and a writer, one of the local heroes.
Last year he met a scientist, an American, formerly Air Force, and they connected, and there is a large property here, an old military installation, which the man wants to open as a school of science and philosophy with Lucho teaching in it. Could it happen? It could happen, yes. They are still looking.
Given three months and a credit card with no limit, he would spend it with the most loyal friends he has, the ones who hold a place in his heart, and he would take them to a desert oasis. Philosophy. Music. The stars.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Mattias Mähl.
Mattias spent many years travelling before he chose Ibiza. Six months in India, six months in Australia, and a small island in the Stockholm archipelago called Ornö, which in winter empties out to almost nothing and becomes its own society. Carpentry carried him through all of it. A car, a box of tools, and a project. You can arrive in any country and simply speak with your hands, which is a language of its own.
Then he chose. And on his first morning here he was sitting outside his van carving a spoon when about twenty people came past and gathered round to watch. Artists, theatre people, clowns, on their way back from something. They were all like him. This is where I stay, he thought, and could not quite believe it. Finally: my language, and people who speak the same one, in full. Like coming home.
Ask Mattias about that language and the first thing he says is that being asked makes him emotional. There was a period when the meditation of handwork went so deep that words with other people became difficult. Everything he knows, he learned by doing.
Living material is what he works with, and the process is a constant humbling. You are learning from the direction of the fibre. You want one thing, the wood offers another, and out of that interaction something more beautiful arrives than what you had in mind.
Then the contradiction he has never resolved. The privilege of being close to a tree, of hearing its history, and then of that tree dying, and of you being the reason. Against that: if you make something beautiful from it, if you celebrate it, is that better? Wisdom, in his account, is a long life of several contradictory thoughts. Some days the object is the answer. Other days Mattias stands in front of a living tree and cannot imagine how anyone could make anything more beautiful than nature already has. The two keep talking to each other, and the making, he thinks, came out of that suffering.
For years the spoons and the small objects went to other people. Never sold, always given: gifts that needed to find someone. Carpentry paid for the bread and butter, so both ran alongside each other for as long as they could, until one day he was a carpenter rather than an artist, and finding his way back has been its own hill to climb.
Saunas brought him to the present workshop. High-end, handcrafted, beautiful units. Which brought long conversations with Christian at Juntos, who had a great deal of work that needed their hands, and eventually the conversations turned into working together. The workshop is now Juntos Carpentry, and for the first time in his life Mattias is part of a large team, having always had his own company, so it took some adjusting.
Right now they work only with what grows on the island. Water here is very limited, so the land needs clearing without clear-cutting: clean it up, make it beautiful and walkable, look after the aquifers and the undergrowth, and use whatever timber comes off it. They have a big mill and they cut their own planks and beams. Everybody else builds in sabina, the juniper that Ibizan houses were traditionally made from, which the island no longer has, so it is now imported: beautiful material, but exotic and not ecological. You can do exactly the same thing, Mattias says, with what is already standing here. It is experimental, and he talks to people doing similar work in Mallorca, where the conditions are far closer than Sweden ever was.
Twenty-four hours would depend entirely on what you had already seen and what you came looking for. The climbing sites, the jumps, the spots nobody can reach, the hikes, the caves nobody knows about yet. Do not expect names: things move very fast here and turn into an Instagram spot, and Mattias has watched it happen. In the shoulder season, lunch somewhere the food comes off the ground and onto the plate. Then a short sleep, a snorkel, a walk, and a small cala where you can be alone, because this island does not have the long crowded beaches other places have. Stay for the sunset and the warmth. Silence, or conversation, or space. The insects are extraordinarily loud at the moment: they start at twenty-eight degrees, and it no longer drops below. Then dinner up at Sant Miquel, at a small new Mexican place run by people whose energy he could feel immediately.
Given a credit card and three months, the first thing would be an old-growth forest, protected. Not owned, because nobody should own such a thing, but secured. There is a vibration in a place where the trees have never been interfered with, where things fall and regrow on their own, where the mosses and the blueberries take over and you understand that this is what everything should look like, and what it did look like not long ago. It is open. It is walkable. You draw a breath and your nervous system goes to the ground. Perhaps two per cent of that kind of forest is left in the world, possibly less, and Mattias finds it genuinely astonishing that protecting it is not what all of us are doing.
Then a house of his own, for his family, having built so many for other people. Land somewhere far from here, mountains and a river, with fresh water in abundance rather than a coastline. Slovenia, perhaps.
And then a small cottage on the edge of the forest.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Serenella Cazac.
It all began with three roses and three lavender plants.
When Serenella found her dream finca in Ibiza in 2012, her Ibicenco landlady welcomed her with a gift of plants and cuttings from her own garden. She planted these among the rubble surrounding the newly built pool, and over time they transformed a bare landscape into the beginning of a flourishing garden. What seemed like a modest gesture sowed the seeds of a lifelong passion.
Back in London, gardening had been little more than a hobby. She had potted a rose, an olive tree and grown a few tomato plants. As a child in rural Tuscany, she had grown up surrounded by beautiful gardens and people who loved them, but it wasn't until she found herself living in an old finca in Ibiza that she truly fell in love with gardening; and, eventually, with growing cut flowers as well as her sprawling garden.
She went to Ibiza in search of love, friendship and a gentler pace of life, leaving behind the relentless rhythm of the city. As well as finding love and creating a family, she found herself embraced by a warm, creative and nurturing community, where both roots and dreams had room to grow.
Her own roots stretch across countries and cultures. She spent her childhood in the Tuscan countryside with a French father and an English mother, whose own life had taken her from Mexico City in the 1950s to Rome before settling in Tuscany. Serenella attended an alternative boarding school in Switzerland, studied French and Spanish at university, and later completed a master's degree in Creative Writing, driven by her lifelong love of words and poetry.
Curiosity has always been the compass guiding Serenella's life. From Mongolia to Togo, Canada to South Africa, and Laos to Brazil, travel and adventure have shaped her journey, each destination offering unforgettable encounters and experiences she describes as extraordinary. There were chapters in New York, Madrid and Paris, followed by fifteen years in Bristol and London, before life eventually led her to Ibiza.
Looking back, it seems fitting that her passion should begin with three roses and three lavender plants. Sometimes the smallest gifts grow into the most beautiful stories.
Among the island's native plants, Serenella is particularly drawn to the local euphorbias, as well as the wild rosemary, the lavender and the golden helichrysum that carpet the landscape from May through June. Her favourite, however, is the asphodel, which she first discovered on Formentera. Its tall, elegant white flower spikes bloom in late summer, bringing a quiet grace to the landscape as the September evenings lengthen and the light turns ever more golden.
For more than ten years, she has created flower mandalas and immersive workshops that invite a slower, more attentive way of seeing and making. Her work is grounded in respect for seasonality, organic growth, and the quiet intelligence of plants, often dissolving the boundaries between gardening and art.
To Serenella, handmade is the true essence of luxury. The older she gets, the more drawn she is to things created by hand, because they carry a different energy from anything produced by a machine. She believes you can sense the time, care, intention and human touch woven into every detail. Whether it is flowers, ceramics, textiles, embroidery, wood or a painting, handmade objects possess a living quality that brings warmth and a fine frequency into a space.
She feels the same about plants and animals. They too possess a living energy that cannot be manufactured or replicated. Their purity reminds her of our connection to nature, to one another, and to the beauty of things created with patience, presence and love. To her, that is the truest form of luxury; not excess, but presence; not perfection, but authenticity.
If Serenella had just twenty-four hours to share Ibiza, the day would depend entirely on the season. In winter, she would head north for a long coastal walk; perhaps to Cala Sant Vicent or Es Portitxol; following the dramatic cliffs until reaching a quiet spot with a view. Summer belongs to the sea. Whether on a rented boat or one shared with friends, she would take you exploring hidden caves, swimming through their cool, turquoise waters before climbing on a secluded rocky islet to bask in the sun.
If given a blank canvas and three months to dream, Serenella would create a home surrounded by a flourishing garden, overflowing with flowers, wildlife and animals, with a greenhouse and a sauna nestled among the trees. In her ideal world, she would follow the seasons, dividing her time between Ibiza and another place close to her heart; perhaps Scandinavia, England or Scotland; living wherever the gardens are at their most beautiful.
The rest would be given to the causes closest to her heart: organisations protecting Indigenous peoples and their rights, supporting communities facing famine, restoring ocean ecosystems, reforesting and rewilding landscapes, and safeguarding wildlife. She would spend those three months ensuring the funds reached the people and projects that could make the greatest difference.
Beyond that, she would invest in something less tangible but equally important: bringing people together. At a time when so much of modern life seems to deepen division, she would support initiatives that foster connection, understanding and community; creating spaces where people can meet, share experiences and rediscover what unites them rather than what sets them apart.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muses: Carmela Ribes and Pablo Marín.
Her father asked her to come and help at the restaurant during her university holidays. That same evening he had hired a new cook. That was 2014, twelve years ago, and she has been with Pablo ever since.
The family has been in restaurants for four generations, in Valencia. Her father started working at nine years old, making the ice creams. He did it his whole life. At twenty he arrived on the island, fell in love with it, and in 1989 he opened Can Salinas. Carmela was born in 1992, so she has never known anything else.
Then he died. They decided to stay with it, which meant taking all of it and working. The next generation is already in the house: Manuel, the third Manuel of the family, after her father and her grandfather. Everyone who comes in gets caught up in Manuel's energy, is how she describes it, and the house runs on that, whether people are coming for the food or for the room or for the people. Nobody forgets Can Salinas.
Ask Pablo about hecho a mano and he goes straight to the point that everyone gets wrong. Hecho a mano does not go hand in hand with speed, or with rushing. The complete opposite. Calm, time, sensitivity, passion, and the technique comes second, on its own. Years of rice. Trial and error. Learning the thing slowly. What they are doing here is looking for the perfect paella, and the root of that is at home, in what her family does around a table and what her family does in restaurants.
The best paella, in his view, is the valenciana, chicken and rabbit, the one eaten on Sundays at his mother's. It is a way of getting people together. The pan goes in the middle of the table, and nobody's portion arrives on a plate. Everyone eats from the same paellera. Like at home.
Two desserts. A torrija, brioche with horchata. And a cheesecake made with Mahón, a Balearic cheese. Whoever comes, orders one of them.
The typography is from 1989. Her father had a small restaurant before this one, which lasted a couple of years, and he brought the lettering across. Her mother did the poster and the colours. It is still on every employee's t-shirt because it is still good. A friend of Carmela's was in a nightclub in Australia and saw a man wearing the logo, and told him he had to be a friend of Carmela's. He wasn't. He had eaten at Can Salinas and bought the shirt, because they sell them. The two of them met in a pub on the other side of the world. People love that logo. It brings back the island.
Twenty-four hours here starts with lunch somewhere cheap and good in Sant Jordi, a village bar, nothing more. Then Salinas, and out on a catamaran with the Salinas Sailing Club, across to Formentera and back. Then a paella at Can Salinas, obviously, and the sobremesa afterwards, which they will tell you is the best thing the restaurant does. Sunset over Es Vedrà. Then into Ibiza town, Bai Bai at the end of the port for something good and cheap, and drinks in the Plaza del Parque. All of it local. All of it from here.
Given an unlimited credit card and three months, the first answer is not about food at all. Help someone who needs it. Not everybody, that's impossible, but somebody nearby, or one family. After that, travel and eat.
Two restaurants. One for tradition, one for invention. Etxebarri, in a small village in the north, where Víctor is the best griller in the world and everything goes over the brasa, and they want to get there before he retires. And David Muñoz in Madrid, because every cook they know has told them to.
Give us the card. Now.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Maloles Antignac.
A shoe, Maloles will tell you, is already a sculpture. Three-dimensional. An object, not a t-shirt. And most of what it is made of sits on the inside, because the inside is what holds the structure up.
She spent ten years proving it. Before that came the fashion cupboards: accessories stylist at Vogue, at Telva, at Elle in Spain, moving between Spain and London, then the IFM in Paris. But the obsession was shoes, and specifically flats, and specifically shoes that were as beautiful inside as out. So she started making them by hand. Her ballerinas had a sewn sole, never glued, so the thing behaved like a glove and stayed flexible. Whimsical is her word for the results: playful, very feminine, and carrying an amount of attention in the detail that in 2003 almost nobody was bothering with.
2003 to 2013. Petite Maloles arrived when her daughters did. She sold in Australia, in Japan, in New York, more or less everywhere. Then she sold the brand to Vivarte, properly, and the money bought a ceramics studio and a first go at clay.
What she was after was a return to an interior femininity, to the origin of it, to the essence of a slightly wild feminine force. Her phrase, and she says she assumes it entirely.
Then 2018, and a group show at the Palais de Tokyo with Jean de Loisy and the Fondation Bettencourt, which Maloles still calls the most beautiful thing she has done. She worked with the artist Marion Verboom on an installation five metres across, and spent two months inside the Sèvres manufacture producing the five thousand pieces it needed. In 2019 came her first solo show in Paris, during FIAC, curated by Marion Vignal. Then Mexico. Then Madrid in 2022, at El Chico. Around twenty sculptures. One called Métamorphose. Another called Daphné, large, textiles and a head, after the woman in the myth who turns into a plant. All of it about transformation, which by then was not a coincidence.
Some part of your energy and your soul transfers into the object. It happens whether the thing is a basket, a thread, or her own hands in the clay. There is the energy of your body and of who you are, and it moves across. In therapy you have transference and counter-transference: this, she says, is simply a transfer. And there is intention, which matters enormously, and which lifts the object into another dimension altogether. It is also, more plainly, a more conscious way of working and of handing things to other people.
The new brand is ETEREL, started in 2025 with her partner and co-founder Aylin Uçkunkaya, and launched in London last month. What they make are altars. Not religious ones. Secular ones. Sculptures, embroidered entirely by hand with an artisan who won the Prix de l'Intelligence de la Main, a name Maloles thinks is magnificent all on its own. One piece is seventy-two centimetres long and fifteen across, shaped something like a boat, and it comes from the roofs of Indonesian funerary temples, which sit between the earth and whatever is beyond it. Open it and there is an egg inside, which is about as universal as a symbol gets, and a place to stand a candle. There is a small one too. An amulet, for protection and for luck.
She was born in Alicante, directly opposite this island, and describes herself as Mediterranean at a hundred per cent. Not particularly attached to Alicante. Attached to the Mediterranean: the vegetation, the rice, the paella, the seafood, the tomatoes, everything that comes off that land, all of it identical here, the climate identical too.
She came because of Eva, who married Chico (Christian) on the island, and because Chico used to climb Es Vedrà every year while that was still possible. They rented houses together and shared them and the children grew up here, and Maloles is godmother. Eva has since moved to Menorca, which Maloles has not forgiven and which Eva knows.
Ibiza she calls the island of freedom. You can be several characters here. Nobody judges you. The possibilities are infinite, and you can grow into whoever you dreamed of being when you woke up that morning, and dream of being somebody else entirely by tomorrow. She loves the contrasts: the forest around Santa Eulària, the hippie side of it, the north above all, which drives her slightly mad. There are places she would take you and cannot, because she does not drive.
One day at Es Vedrà she was there with a friend and both their watches stopped at the same moment. Hers and the other woman's. The energy of this island is telluric, she says, and comes up out of the ground, which is why it has drawn so many mad people to it, in the good sense.
Twenty-four hours goes to Punta Galera, where the sea and the land mix into each other. Erosion, matter, a fusion. Maloles is a sculptor, so what she goes there to look at is what time has been doing to the rock and the different forms it has arrived at. There is a force between the earth and the sea that is very strong, and an enormous silence with it. You can swim. You can snorkel. Go very early and stay until midday, then come back in the evening, because the sunset sits directly opposite and the light comes off the rocks gold. A light show.
Give her forty-eight hours and there is also Es Torrent, the beach and the restaurant, which is fairly confidential. Twenty-one years of going there. Her children know everyone.
Give her a credit card and three months, a boat. An enormous sailing boat with a skipper, because she cannot sail it herself. Start in Papua New Guinea and work towards Indonesia, which is not far, and meet the peoples still living another way entirely, in order to have the experience of being grounded. She knows perfectly well this may be a Westerner's fantasy and says so before anyone else can. But she thinks we have lost our footing, and that there is a great deal of hope in watching people outside a mad consumer society live on very simple principles that still make them happy. Being made happy, she points out, is timeless.
She went to Indonesia last year. This summer it is Peru, part of the Amazon. Rough contact with nature and with the essential, and with people who have not lost their essence.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: Romina Mauriziano.
Her father changed his clothes five times a day. He was eccentric, and so it began there. Her mother would help her choose a bag, or a colour. They were a family of fashion fanatics. By the time she was seven she was buying fabric to make her own things, and she has no memory of Barbies, only of wanting to go to fabric shops. Which tells you, she says, that you can see a person's passion very early.
She is Chilean, from Santiago. She has been coming to the island for thirty years and living here for the last three, and she still travels constantly and still goes home to Chile and to her family.
Her brand is Keralas, part creation and part upcycling. She is obsessed with vintage, so she travels the world buying the pieces that mean something to her, and lately they have been working on a nineties collection, because she is obsessed with the nineties too, and the obsession decides what they make.
She buys in the United States, where Carhartt and Dickies come cheap, and in Italy: a town near Naples called Ercolano, which she found recently and which is full of it, vintage clothes, vintage jewellery, and people who are very good at this and simply want to trade.
She used to keep the best pieces. Then the wardrobe started to explode. Now she photographs a piece, wears it if she wants, and sells it in the end, because the more clothes she keeps the less she has. They are all special in some way.
A good part of the clientele is DJs, who come here to play and also to find things. Men do not have time to shop and want it easy: they want a shirt and they leave with five, which she finds far simpler than dressing women.
The hands, she thinks, are what we are losing. She has nothing against artificial intelligence, but hands are the connectors. They carry love, and transmission, and the things families pass down. An antique piece and a new piece of fabric are not the same object at all, and there is no comparison to be made between them.
Twenty-four hours starts at the fish shack, for the best sea bass you can eat and for the rocks, where you can get into the water and look back across at Dalt Vila, which she thinks is the most beautiful thing there is and which everybody ought to come and see. She lives up there, in the small streets, and it is the small streets she loves. There is a bar in them belonging to a friend of hers, and a restaurant belonging to another friend, and those places plus the sunsets are her list.
Beyond that her advice is not a place. Ibiza works on intention. People arrive lost and always find something interesting. So the tip is to find what you need in the time you have.
Given unlimited funds and three months, she wants new skills: making her own pieces, printing her own. And contributing. She would go to a village and work with women there, learn what they know, hopefully teach them something she knows, and have that exchange run both ways.
We at Kilometre Paris would like to present our muse: María José Frigoles.
The trade was supposed to pass from parent to child, and it kept failing to. The old master potter of the island, a man everybody called Daifa, had no children at all, so he taught María José's father instead. Her father, Toni Frigoles, then had no son, and by the same rule it should have gone to a son. She is careful about this, and she is right to be: it was cultural, not a judgement on women. It was simply what was normal. So he taught the man across the road, who went off and opened his own workshop.
And then he taught his daughter, because she was standing there and she wanted it.
She learned it well. Her father was her greatest fan and her harshest critic, and she thinks, without being certain, that he was pleased she took it on. Two men who were not related to each other and one who was, and the thing arrived where it was never supposed to go.
Purist is her own word for herself. María José works with the tools that have always been used here. She works with moulds, which sounds like a contradiction until you handle two pieces from the same mould and find they are not the same piece, because the hand that made them was there. Handmade holds all of our roots inside it, she says. No heavily industrialised products, and that is precisely the point. You have to give that value its name.
There was a time when an Ibizan house ran entirely on ceramic. A jug for drinking out in the countryside. No oil in the houses. Water carried in jars. Then the seventies arrived, with tourism and with plastic, and every single one of those objects stopped being needed inside about a decade. The potters had to reinvent themselves or stop, so what they began making instead was decorative. Daifa was among the first to make that turn, alongside a potter called Gabrielet who worked over on Formentera.
Something very small was lost in the process, and María José is the one who noticed it. In a household jug, if a stone came through the clay, or there was a flaw, nobody minded. You only saw it after the kiln anyway. Decorative ceramics will not accept the stone. Which is why her clay now comes from Barcelona and from Valencia, in blocks, or in powder for the moulds, and why the clay of this island is kept for the engobes, the colour laid on before firing. Then the glaze, which vitrifies and makes the thing safe to eat from. An entire chain of consequences, out of a small stone nobody used to mind.
For ten years she sold other people's work alongside her own. Then she stopped, on a point of principle she states plainly: she only wanted to sell what she loved, and anything she bought on this island had to have been made on this island, and that was getting harder every year. So now she produces, and she teaches.
The teaching runs through the artisan markets in summer and at Christmas, and with adults through the spring. Her favourite part is the first day, when she tells the room that every person in it is a creative person and that not one of them can be compared to anybody else. Then she hands them the freedom and stands back. They ask what they are going to make. She tells them she will give the guidance and they will make whatever is actually in them. Some turn out to be very good at sculpture. Some make plates. And every single time, without exception, each of them loves what everybody else has made and not their own. One girl was turning out beautiful sculptures and would not stop calling them ugly. We block ourselves, is María José's verdict, and she has watched it happen enough times to say it flatly.
The piece she most likes making is Tanit, the pagan goddess of this island, whose sanctuary is out on the Sant Vicent road and whose business is protection. Tanit is also what sells most. Three thousand years on and the goddess is still keeping a potter in work.
Twenty-four hours begins at the workshop, so that you see the roots of the island and how the work is actually done, and that order is not an accident. Then Tanit. Then the Punic necropolis. Then Dalt Vila, the old walled town, which she calls a very beautiful piece of heritage. Then lunch, because you cannot understand a place without eating it: a small beach she loves where the restaurant puts your feet in the sand, run by people from here, and not a beach club. Then sunset at Cala d'Hort, which is thoroughly overrun, except that María José knows the corners where nobody goes.
Given money and three months, she would go and find potters somewhere else, watch how they work, learn what their culture is, and put in the hours alongside them for the whole three months. Mexico first, where the ceramic culture is enormous.